One Year Down

and one year (and a month or two) to go!

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(The below is taken from a mass update email I just sent, so don't worry about reading it again, but I just wanted to put it up...)
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Hey Everyone!!!! [Please be warned that this is a long email...but it's a once-a year thing]

Well, I'm not at the official One Year in Senegal, but will be there on Friday, March 13. Yes, Friday is the one year mark when myself and 38 other young Americans landed in Dakar, after two days Staging in Philly, a full day of flights, and God-only-knows how many months or years of application and preparation for the life in the Peace Corps. Since I will most likely be in my village on Friday, I thought I would send the one year email a few days early. I am quite shocked that the year mark has hit, and I know several others who came in with me are as well. One year is three times as long as I spent in Brussels and six times as long as I lived in Paris, yet in many ways they are even still more familiar to me than Senegal. Maybe not, but it's definitely been and will continue to be a much longer journey.

So what has this year held for me? Really, what has it not? (Marriage proposals have been plentiful, but none accepted, so no worries!) It has probably been the hardest and most challenging year of my life, but one where I learned way more than I ever have over a 12 month period and I thought it would be interesting to reflect on this year based on the things that I have learned--knowing full well that I still have SO MUCH to learn about life in Senegal and my work. I've learned a lot about Senegal, health, development, culture, education, myself, my friends, and more--too much to even begin to put into words. I know when I come back in April/May 2010, it will take me awhile to process through it all, but here's a start.

Some things (in no particular order) that I have learned include:
Two different languages (Serere and Wolof, to different degrees)
How to bargain for goods at the market, cabs, etc
How to travel in West African public transport (eek...)
Who in my life will make the effort to stay in touch (def had some surprises there)
How to garden (in the ground and in random containers), do a tree nursery, to plant trees, collect seeds
That I'm capable of more than I sometimes think I can handle
How to pull water from a well and then carry it on my head
To use a squatty toilet
That I had absolutely NO CLUE what I was doing when I signed up for Peace Corps, which was probably a good thing
To paint murals
That waking up to a rooster's crow is not enjoyable or cute
To hand wash my laundry (pull water from the well, add soap, soak clothes, agitate/scrub, squeeze out, rinse, squeeze, hang on the line, soak feet in rinse water, dump leftover water on garden) and realize the value of a washing machine
To bathe with a bucket (one big one, one little)
How to ride a charette (ish)
That I actually love raw milk with millet (and a little sugar)
How to defend my marital status in multiple languages and to know when to lie about it as well
How to read Senegalese indirect communication (they don't like to directly say no, so you need to know when they say yes but actually mean no)
How to tie a hairwrap-ish
To distinguish the sounds of the cries of 25 different children as well as baby animals
That mangoes are INCROYABLE
The value of the cold season
The importance of long-distance phone calls
The beauty of letter-writing and letter reading (though I sometimes feel like I write more than I receive)
How lucky I am to have been born in a country that values mens and womens education and rights (relatively) equally and not to suffer oppression based on my gender or ethnicity
The oral-fecal cycle and how to explain it to people, how to prevent it (hand washing with soap), and other basic health lessons
The importance of education in development and how lack of education (through strikes, the government not paying, poverty, etc) can cripple several generations of potential
The tragedy of tallibees and how it really is a human rights abuse taking kids away from their families for "religious education" only to make them beg on the streets and their begged money go into the pockets of ridiculously rich religious leaders with fancy homes, cars, and cell phones, while the kids wear rags and starve...and yet, know that helping the kids really only helps the system, so what is one to do?
To design my own clothes (then get them made!) and (horribly) patch holes in my clothes
How to pound millet and make Senegalese couscous
The true meaning of the phrase "to grow like a weed"
To laugh at myself (I think I learned this during years of mission trips, but I really value it now) and to JUST DANCE!
About breastfeeding and pre and post natal care
That the Harry Potter books are absolutely fabulous!
That no matter where I am, I still love/appreciate the value of a good cup of coffee or glass of red wine
To travel lightly, yet still be prepared and probably overpack
About all sorts of health issues like reproductive health, Malaria, hygiene and sanitation, clean water, and many other issues
To appreciate the environment (not like I didn't before, but still...)
About mangroves as an ecosystem and really understand the problem of deforestation (Senegal is quickly turning into the Sahara Desert)
That vacations are AMAZING in so many ways--esp around the holidays to see friends and family
How to rely on the kindness of strangers and non-strangers, but also know when to be aware of people trying to take advantage of you
How to sit around (and why one should ALWAYS carry a book on your person)
The necessity of a delicious and nutrient-packed meal after weeks in the village (or after Ramadan)
The amazingness of peanut butter (peanuts in general) as a nutritional substance, esp with bananas!
That care packages in the PC are 500% better than care packages in college
How amazing going to church is after not being able to for several months, even if it's in a crazy French/English/Serere mix, that I only partially understand--it still means a lot
That I am soooo thankful capital punishment is no longer allowed in schools and that beating your child is NOT acceptable in the States--that breaks my heart here
How to really be creative with cooking and with limited supplies in general
That I can no longer spell correctly in any language or hold a normal American conversation (after we get past name, job, hometown, weather, marital status, I'm at a loss for words--actually it's a problem many PCVs here have, we can only hold Senegalese style convos...)
That I still have no idea what I want to do post-PC, where I want to live, or what exactly I want to study for grad school
That I have amazingly supportive family and friends who haven't once told me that I should just get up and leave--ie quit PC, or not do it at all, and I am very blessed for having that
That as hard as it can be, this is where I need to be right now

Ok, well that list is long enough for now, but is really just the tip of the iceberg of learning experiences here in Senegal. I'm sure if I sat here long enough I could double or triple that list, at least!

Work has been picking up a lot the past few months. I am doing a mixture of stuff in the village (gardening at the school, a latrine project, getting community and school educational health sessions going, working with teachers), stuff in my nearest town slowly coming together (girls' group and English club, maybe a summer camp?), regional activities (preparing for a Girls' Leadership camp next summer, learning about the mangroves and reforesting them), and training activities for future PCVs (I've done a lot of work with the cross culture training of the newest groups of trainees, including a cross culture book, plus I'm working with a fellow PCV to write a Serere-English dictionary). There's also a ton more things that I want to do in this next year, but probably won't quite have time for (in part because things move much slower here as well). I need to make sure to find a balance between work (in and out of the village) and personal time, because just like in the States, I seem to have a hard time finding it. Either I feel like I'm sitting around too much reading in the village (for fun and work) and that I need to be doing a lot more, or I'm just constantly running around doing things (in and out of the village) and then feel exhausted and horrible because I don't have time to sit with friends and family in the village, or to visit fellow PCVs. I still haven't seen much of Senegal at all, so I want to spend time visiting fellow PCVs around the country, and see it because for such a small country, every region is sooo different, and maybe a trip to some neighboring countries. We shall see.

Because the bush isn't good enough

The below excerpt was taken from the Peace Corps website and is the description for a latrine project Marc and I are working on together (actually, he has done a large majority of the leg work but has extra money so is kindly giving it to my village for the same project). Actually, the greater Kaolack region PCVs are also working on a latrine project, which I am part of as well, in order to get latrines in every compound in my village.

Latrine Construction

This proposal requests the sum of $1,758.96 for the construction of 47 latrines in two Senegalese villages. Lacking access to basic sanitation, residents have no choice but to relieve themselves directly on the ground just outside the village proper. This increases the rates of diarrhea and other diseases in the villages. Furthermore, dangerous items are discarded carelessly due to the lack of a proper place to dispose of them, ending up in the hands of young children and babies.

In coordination with Peace Corps, the villages have developed Community Action Plans that have identified the construction of latrines as a necessary means to achieving their goal of improving village health and overall sanitation. However, they lack the means to accomplish this on their own. The communities have pledged to contribute a considerable amount of labor and materials comprising 15% of the total project cost as well as a 10% cash contribution. They need your help—please assist them in making their communities a better place to live.

On the PC website, you can actually find links to a bunch of projects in Senegal and around the world. [It's part of Peace Corps Partnership funding, that allows friends and family in the States to donate to projects we are working on as PCVs.] We already had funding, or I would have posted the link. In the future (next fall?), I may try and raise money for a well covering project to my village, but I have a lot of other projects in the mean time.

WAIST pics

Team Pyramid

Sarah, our star pitcher

Action shot

Fatou, my Serere language trainer was there as well. We beat her team. It was great!

My neighbor Marc taking a swing

Marc and our team captain, Jared

Team MacKaolack!!!!!!

I hope you like the plaid! Our team's theme was Braveheart (think kilts and plaid...and some blue faces), and we frequently referred to ourselves as MacKaolack (or the Cesspool as we lovingly refer to our nasty city). It was a lot of fun and we took 3rd place, with a trophy and everything!

Blogspot is being weird, so I can't describe the pics right now. I will try and post more later, I do actually promise!

side note

In response to Jodi's comment on my post against pregnancy...you are correct. It is culturally taboo for people to talk about pregnancy before a baby is born. (Kind of a "don't count your chickens thing..."). It is also bad to count your children for fear that evil spirits will take one if you give them a number. As a Health PCV, I have to ask tough questions and encourage talk on these issues...plus, women do talk about them in private a little. They all know when someone else in the village is pregnant but then are absolutely shocked when I catch on. I do my best to remain as culturally sensitive as possible about asking my sisters if they've gone to the clinic for a prenatal visit or to see their health visit card and other stuff in private so as not to embarrass them but also let them know that it is important to talk about and deal with these issues--for their health as well as the health of the unborn baby. Joking about pregnancy, such as "who would win a running race?" (the current joke among several pregnant women in the village), is mostly done between the women and myself, but can be in larger groups.

I'm alive

I know it's been awhile and I've been in an area with electricity and typical modern comforts without an update apart from my facebook status--it's coming...maybe tomorrow or the day after. I'm in Dakar, headed back to Thies in the morning (I'm not going back to the village for quite awhile still...). I'm staying with an awesome family in Dakar (thanks Alexis for hooking me up!) which has perhaps the most comfortable (guest) bed in existence. Seriously, it's amazing and I find it difficult to pull myself out of it.

Oh yea, and I took the GRE this morning. Taking the GRE in Africa is 159% different from taking any standardized test in America, hands down. Not even the same playing field. People walked in 30 min late (Africa Standard Time), there was a demonstration just a few blocks away with burnt tires (we didn't see it, just knew it was going on), we all sat at one table facing across from each other, ate raw peanuts at the break, and other randomness you would never see in the States. That, and it was fascinating to see non-Americans (Senegalese, etc) who weren't raised on US standardized testing trying to follow the rules for filling in circles and numbers and names, etc. The group of PCVs definitely realized that we were at an advantage just from being familiar with the format of the test. As for the (paper-based) test, yea...it was rough. We all walked away exhausted, comfortable with the writing section but questioning our own knowledge of the English language after the vocab section. Hence, we sooooo deserved our giant N'icecream icecream cones after! I'm so glad to have that behind me.

Ok, more later on W.A.I.S.T., etc, I promise. I need to pack and want to read in the incredible bed for a bit.

Quick Note

Hey. I don't really have a lot to say right now, though I just hit the 11 months in Senegal mark. Weird, huh? Tomorrow I am going to Dakar for the West African Invitational Softball Tournament (W.A.I.S.T.), which will be a chance to see other PCVs from my Stage, meet PCVs from other countries (and reconnect with a Brussels buddy from Mauritania), and eat hotdogs. Not even kidding.

Thies has been good...general random Cross Cultural stuff in preparation for the Stage of new Health/EE trainees arriving in Senegal on February 28. I visited the Thies Dioufs a few times, with promises to come back the next time I am in town (which might be in a week or two, depending how things roll). Generally, I'm staying busy and don't seem to be stopping for anything, which is typical for me.

I love you and miss you all! Sorry for such a lame post, better stuff to come soon, Inchallah.

Pregnancy in the village, or at least my compound

As I mentioned, several of my sisters in the village are pregnant so this is a constant topic of conversation (not necessarily among them, but I bring it up...).

One sister (Diboor) is in her 7th or 8th month and hadn't yet been in for a prenatal consultation (not the fancy American ones, or anywhere near that) b/c her husband (Lamine) didn't yet have any money for it. Annoyed with Lamine but not wanting Diboor (his 2nd wife) or the baby to suffer his irresponsibility, I gave her the money to go. A ticket for a prenatal consultation costs 200CFA (50 cents) and then it's a few dollars for shots, iron pills, and malaria prophylaxis. I gave my sister the equivalent of $4 to cover it because her husband didn't have that--or at least claimed he didn't.She didn't ask me for it nor have I ever given money for anything besides my food, this just seemed too important. She went and will probably have her baby in early March!

Lamine's first wife, Khodya is also extremely pregnant (end of her 8th month probably). She showed me her consultation card last night and she is having twins! She also only went for 1 consultation, in which the nurse told her to go to the regional hospital to have a sonogram done, suspecting twins. The sonogram picture isn't anywhere near the quality in the US, but I could clearly see there are 2. She already has 6 kids (that I know of) and she's only 35... Khodya's exhausted, giving birth almost on the clock ever 1.5-2 years, and her body will continue to have difficulty recovering after each birth without necessary time to rest. Another sister, Rhoky (bro Ibou's 2nd wife), is still breastfeeding her daughter who is almost 2 and can't yet walk (bigger problem there) and is pregnant as well. She is only 2 or 3 months, but looks 4 or 5...more twins? And Ibou wants a 3rd wife. He already has like 10 kids--he's the one who can't afford to give his daughter a $1-$2 tetanus shot but wants another wife. Yea...

This brings me to my main decision of the week: if you can't afford to send your pregnant wife (wives, in Lamine's case) to get the necessary 4 (or even 2 or 3) prenatal consultations, let alone health services after the child is born, maybe you should stop procreating. Just my opinion.

As a cultural note about Senegalese, they are not comfortable talking about pregnancy. To most it's taboo. Mothers and fathers also don't like to count the number of children they have for fear that will jinx one of them. With the exception of Rhoky, my sisters denied their pregnancies, asking who told me. "I have eyes, I can see..." "No, this is just from the millet and rice, I ate a lot." This goes for one of the teachers as well. However, as a Health PCV, one of my jobs (I guess) is getting people to talk about stuff like this, at least so they understand the importance in acknowledging the pregnancy so they can take proper care of themselves and their unborn babies. My family is getting used to me talking to them about it, though I try to do it just with the woman or women in a smaller setting. Women outside of my family are still somewhat shocked when I bring it up or make a comment about someone being pregnant, always denying and asking how I know, feigning shock and awkwardly laughing. [Note: I only bring it up when I am 100% sure] However, the most recent joke with the pregnant teacher and my sisters is talking about who would win a running race between them, someone always adding the name of another pregnant woman in the village to the mix. Humor is at least one way to start addressing it. Currently, Fatou (teacher) thinks she could win, but says Khodya would be close. Of course, super competitive Diboor thinks she could take them all (still while denying being pregnant, even after showing me the card from her prenatal visit). Ondang ondang.

Khodya asked me two days ago and again last night "if I could take her stomach for her for the next month or so." Sadly for her, I cannot (nor would I want to at this point in my life), but I promised to help after the birth by carrying one on my back. haha. I also made the family promise to call me when she delivers. My sisters have a habit of delivering their children (baby Ibou, Amy Na) while I am away from the village for an extended period of time, which is kind of sad. Actually, all I really care about is a safe delivery of the baby and the health of the mother. Prayers for my sisters as they get ready to deliver, especially Khodya, please.